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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.